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  • Picturesque Interlude

    Picturesque Interlude

    An extremely popular tourist destination all round the year, the hill station of Mussoorie in Uttaranchal is popularly called “Queen of the Hills”. And Queen of the Hills it is! Located at the foothills of the Himalayas, Mussoorie is a refuge for those who head for the hills to escape from the heat of the plains. 

    Discovered in 1827 by an adventurous military officer called Captain Young, Mussoorie has developed into an enchanting destination with varied flora and fauna, waterfalls, picnic spots, etc. The full glory of the Himalayas can be appreciated from many spots in Mussoorie. One of the main attractions is the Mall where tourists come to shop and enjoy views of the surrounding hills and Doon Valley. Wooden decorative items, brass statues, ceramic vases, Tibetan Prayer wheels and vases available at the Mall are very popular with tourists.

    A ropeway from the mall takes you to the Gun Hill which gets its name from the fact that in the old days a gun was kept atop the hill and was fired at mid-day to denote the time. Gun Hill gives you amazing views of the Himalayan peaks. Lal Tibba, Muncipal Garden and the Kempty Falls are also visitor hotspots. Kempty Falls cascade down from an altitude of 4,500 feet and then split further into five making the falls a stunningly beautiful sight. Developed as a tourist destination by John Mekinan, after 1835, the Falls derive their name from ‘Camp-tea’, as the Britishers used to organise their tea parties here!

    Mussoorie  has a lot to offer adventure enthusiasts like trekking trails in the Benog Hills and the Lal Tibba.  Mussoorie is also the base for longer treks to the Gangotri, Yamunotri, the Black Peak, Har-ki-Doon, the Garhwal Himalayas and into nearby Himachal Pradesh. Permits may be obtained in advance from the Divisional Forest Officer of Mussoorie for trout fishing. 

    Nearby attractions include the famous Surkhanda Devi Temple at a height of 10,000 feet. Nag Tibba which is 41 km away and located at an altitude of 10,000 feet surrounded by pine forests, brooks and slate-roofed villages, Dhanaulti, another breathtaking hill station.

  • Food For Thought

    Food For Thought

     by Rudy Otter

    “What’s the food like?” is a question that tourists like to ask. Who would want to take a holiday in a country where the meals are regarded as “terrible” or “tasteless”?        

      Indian foodstuffs, I’m pleased to say, made a big impression in March with an appetising array of meals, snacks and spices at the biennial 4-day International Food & Drink show in London, held in the same sprawling venue where the World Travel Market featuring India is staged every year.        

     In my book, holidays and food go hand in hand. If you like the food, you want to visit the country concerned and give your tastebuds an even bigger treat.       

    Proudly exhibiting Indian food and drink, alongside 1,200 of the world’s top as well as rising organisations, was APEDA (which stands for Agricultural and Processed Food Export Development Authority), representing a range of Indian firms seeking fresh markets across the globe. These included the All India Rice Exporters Association,  Beez India Natural Products, Haldiram Exports, Khushi Foods, Om Mangoes, Lion Fruits and Vegetables, Ravi Foods, Shri Lal Mahal and various others.       

    The Tea Board of India was also eagerly promoting several different brands ranging from Nilgiri to Darjeeling and Assam Tea.       

     Everywhere one looked, India’s food influences were evident, competing strongly with products of other countries, all there to increase market share in a friendly but businesslike atmosphere. 

     I spotted stands exhibiting Amira Foods of New Delhi, a large, privately-owned company which exports products such as Basmati rice and fresh vegetables to more than 30 countries with ambitions to expand even further afield. Anila’s Authentic Sauces, a UK-based firm, specialising in “home-cooked flavours and tastes” free of dairy, gluten, sugar, onion and garlic, was there too. I also saw Exotic Fruits of Mumbai which exports tropical fruit purees and concentrates in canned and frozen packaging.       

    There was G.S. Limited of Shahjahanpur with its BuzyWoman range of ready-to-cook vegetarian dishes which can be turned out in five minutes.  Spice in the Box, a UK firm, offers spice kits of “pure herbs and spices” to make traditional meals by with easy-to-follow recipes printed on each sachet. Other exhibitors included In2Spice (correct) Ltd, Mumtaz Ventures, The British Curry Company, and many more, attracting hundreds of potential clients while inevitably projecting India as a holiday destination with food as a hook to draw people in.       

    Jalpur Millers, a UK-based firm, displayed its range of flour spices, pulses and pickles. Masala Masala, (correct) another UK-based firm,   showed its “100 per cent natural, Indian fresh sauce range made with the finest ingredients”. New York Delhi, producers of snacks including the ever-popular Bombay Mix, say their spicy flavours “have not been watered down for Western tastes”. They weren’t kidding, as I found out, after sampling a mouthful of their fiery chewra.           

    Many of the foreign exhibitors I spoke to said they “love India” and several have combined a break in Kerala with a holiday in other parts of India, usually places like Rajasthan, Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, Gujarat and elsewhere, happily indulging in all the subcontinent’s delightful cuisines.       

     Indeed there is a UK magazine called “Food and Travel” which earlier this year devoted ten pages to a culinary tour of Puducherry, the former French colony in South India, undertaken by top Indian chef Manju Malhi, seeking out mouth-watering dishes that blended French and Indian cooking techniques.       

    I look forward to the day when India’s Ministry of Tourism displays India’s staggering array of dishes under the Incredible! India banner at these frequent food fairs, so uniting Indian tourism and its lip-smacking food as one irresistibly spicy package.

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  • The Western Half of India

    The Western Half of India

    India is probably one of the most diversified countries in the world, where it is possible to find all kinds of landscapes, from desert acres of land to tropical areas where green abounds, as well as different types of cultures. It is, therefore, an endless world in itself, even though the recent history of independence after centuries of European colonization. 

    While being the smallest state, Goa is also one of the most visited-especially by western tourists – being known for presenting a different India to its visitors. The eastern part is mostly covered by the World Heritage Site Western Ghats and the rich and tropical biodiversity found in the state has made it earn comparisons to the Amazon and the Congo, as it has plenty of wildlife sanctuaries. The so popular beaches, that go along 125 km of the coastline, are major attractions for tourists alongside the architectural landscape left by the Portuguese, having two World Heritage Sites: the Bom Jesus Basilica and the churches and convents of Old Goa. 

    The Union Territory of Daman & Diu, separated from Goa in 1987, is also an area of great interest. In the city of Daman, divided by the Damanganga River, serenity and history are combined, with its beaches and Portuguese heritage. Roman architecture can be seen in the church of Bom Jesus which dates back to the 16th century and, at the north side of the river, Fort Jerome remains with some significant sites, such as the Church of Our Lady of the Sea and the Portuguese War Cemetery.  To relax, the city offers Devka Beach and Jampore Beach, one of the few in India with black sand. 

    In Diu, a historical trading post and naval base, one of the finest examples of Baroque architecture can be found, in the 400 years old St. Paul’s Church. One of its main attractions is the mysterious Naida Caves, located outside of the Diu Fort’s walls- the same fortress provides a kaleidoscope view over the fishing town. 

    The first to regain independence from the Portuguese after Indian unification, Dadra & Nagar Haveli is a nature-blessed Union Territory close to Daman. Where many Bollywood movies have been shot, among the region’s highlights are the Vangaga Lake Garden, a luxurious green park perfect for walks, jogging or boating; the Vasona Lion Safari, where it is possible to see the Asiatic Lions in their natural habitat; the Deer Park, a wildlife sanctuary with species like Sambhar or Chital, and also with a diverse bird population; and the Nakshatra Garden, an astrology-based garden.  

    Highly influenced by the Portuguese permanency, these three sites are, thus, a mix between the West -for its past- and the East, where harmony prevails among cultures and, especially, among religions, attracting tourists from all over the world every year. The Mangueshi Temple, in Goa, sets an example of this union, for its influence on Portuguese architecture. 

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  • Fascinating Trekking Trails

    Fascinating Trekking Trails

    Karnataka is fast emerging as a trekking destination of national importance with its many mountain trails in the Western Ghats or the Sahayadri mountains, running south to north and crisscrossing the state. 

    The uniqueness of the trekking experience in Karnataka lies in the abundance that nature has bestowed on the state in the form of lush tropical forests, hills and dales, caves and cascades, and roaring rivers. The pristine coastline adds to the charm. 

    The trekking trails are mostly located in the `Ghat’ districts of North and South Kanara, Shimoga, Chikmagalur, Hassan and Coorg in the interior of Karnataka. It is no wonder, that at times, even village houses and temple courtyards serve as campsites for the persons on the trekking venture! The ideal time to go on a trekking expedition is the period just after the monsoon, that is,  September to December when the landscape is lush and green. 

    In Hassan district, an interesting variation of the trekking experience is the `Railway Track’. It is altogether a unique experience – trekking on the railway track from Doniga station to Yedakumeri, Shiribagilu and finally Kukke Subramanya, camping for the night at each station.  

    The all-absorbing Coorg and its stretches of coffee plantation are virtually one continuous trekking territory. With lush green hills and forests, plantations, gushing rivers like the Cauvery, Barapole and Lakshmanteertha and the wildlife sanctuary at Nagarahole, trekking in this area is an unbelievably thrilling experience.  Some of the well-trodden trekking trails here are around the tallest peak in this district — Thadiandamol and the trail leading from Chelavara village through the Emmepare Falls, Baliatra Falls, Thadiandamol Peak, the ruins of the Nalakkanad palace to the Iguthappa peak, which has a shrine of Lord Subramanya set in what seems to be a mystical location.

    The trekking trail around the Barapole River leads from Makuta through the reserve forest to a jungle pool is called Neelampole. Thick bamboo forests skirt the river banks and this is dense elephant territory. In the Brahmagiri ranges of Southern Coorg, a forest trail leads from Irupu Falls to the Brahmagiri peak. The falls present a stunning sight during the monsoons. 

    Interesting trek routes are also found in the southern parts of the Mysore district. From Bandipur, a wildlife sanctuary, a trail through the buffer zone of the reserve forest ascends to the Himavad Gopalaswamy temple on a hill. Another popular route is the “Cauvery River bank trek” from Mekedatu to Muthathi, where the river is a broad gushing expanse of water, creating innumerable small islands and finally to Bhimeshwari.

    Besides these long trails, numerous short trails leading up to boulder-strewn monolithic hills abound around Bangalore. These are the Rangaswamy Betta near Kanakpura, the Ramagiri Hills near Ramanagaram, Devarayanadurga, Shivganga, Siddarabetta and Madhugiribetta near Tumkur, the Male Mahadeshwara Hills (M.M. Hills) and the Biligirirangan Hills (B.R. Hills) near Kollegal. These hills have temples, forts, forests or caves. Rock climbing and speleology  (the study of caves), are other activities one can undertake besides trekking.

     North Kanara is another bet for Karnataka trekking with its marvellous trekking terrain with four mighty rivers flowing east to west of which  `Kali River Bank Trek’ starts from Ambikanagar near Dandeli and takes a rugged teak and bamboo forest trail along the dark Kali River and its tributary, the Kaneri. 

    The district of South Kanara has trekking trails leading to the Kodachadri, the Kumaraparbat and the Kolikamalai peaks. From Kollur town, famous for the Mookambika temple, a trail leads to the towering Kodachadri peak where there is a temple complex and a monument called Sarvagnya Peeta, the seat where Shankaracharya attained divine knowledge. 

    So put on your trekking shoes but spare a thought for conserving the ecology while you enjoy the experience!

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  • A Thousand Flowers Bloom

    A Thousand Flowers Bloom

    Picture-postcard perfect would be one of the best descriptions for beautiful Gulmarg located at an altitude of 2730 meters above sea level in Jammu and Kashmir. Valleys of lush greenery surrounded by snowcapped mountains in summer and a silvery snow paradise in winter, Gulmarg is located in the north of Jammu and Kashmir in the Baramulla district, 57 km southwest of the capital, Srinagar. 

    Gulmarg is known for its grassy slopes emblazoned with wildflowers and this has given it its name which means ‘Meadow of Flowers’. Gulmarg has been the scene of many a film shoot. The place also has the highest green golf course in the world, at a height of 2,650 m. Tourists visit this panoramic golf course, maybe not to play golf, but to admire beautiful green slopes. Tour groups offer temporary membership at the golf course. Gulmarg is a base for those who trek to the Pir Panjal Range, Nanga Parbat and Khilanmarg and it is also the country’s leading ski resort in the winter.

    If you are setting out to reach Gulmarg by road from Srinagar, be prepared for a journey of sheer enchantment. Avenues of poplar line the roads, going on to flat expanses of rice and maize fields dotted with villages. Seasonal colours paint a pretty picture-green, gold or silvery white. The climb to Gulmarg begins after you reach Tangmarg through the fir-covered countryside. Stop at ‘View Point’ for a spectacular vision of the snowcapped peaks. 

    From Gulmarg, a pony track leads upwards to Khilanmarg, Kongdori and Seven Springs. It takes a couple of hours by pony, and slightly longer on foot. Khilanmarg offers an unparalleled view of the great Himalayan range. From here, across the peak Apharwat, is Alpather Lake at a distance of about 13 km from Gulmarg. This scenic alpine lake remains frozen until late June. For those who love to take the trail on horseback, Alpather Lake makes an exciting day’s excursion. Coming down from Gulmarg, people of all faiths stop over at the shrine of Baba Reshi, a Muslim mystic saint.  

    Gulamr has a gently sloping topography and this is what makes it an ideal spot for skiing, sledging and tobogganing.  The Winter Games Federation of India has honoured Gulmarg as being the winter sports capital of India. Many tourists arrive simple to watch, but end up donning their first pair of ski shoes a short time after their arrival! A few of the many slopes are serviced by ski lifts. The Gulmarg Gondola Cable Car from Gulmarg to the majestic 14,000 ft. height of the Apaharwat mountains gives skiers a ski run of nearly 3 km.  Gulmarg also attracted many domestic tourists who wanted to enjoy the snow and the winter carnival that started in February. 

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  • Wealth of the Desert

    Wealth of the Desert

    India’s largest state, Rajasthan, located throughout the vast Thar Desert- which is also known as the “Great Indian Desert” – is considered to be the most colourful region of the country, and is famous for its palaces.

    Jaipur, the capital which is also known as the Pink City, forms the Golden Triangle, alongside Agra and New Delhi, appointing it as a very important remark in India for every tourist. The City Palace, initially built in the 18th century by Sawai Jai Singh II, ruler of Amber, is a complex that gathers the Chandra Mahal, the Mubarak Mahal as well as the Maharani Palace. Standing majestically on the edge of the complex is the Hawa Mahal, which is constructed in red and pink sandstone and designed in the shape of Krishna’s crown. And, in the middle of Man Sagar Lake, situates the Jal Mahal.

    The historic capital of the Mewar Kingdom, Udaipur, is a picturesque city surrounded by palaces and lakes. The City Palace, on the east bank of Lake Pichola, is considered the biggest of its kind in the state. Providing a panoramic view of the city and other monuments such as the Lake Palace and the Jag Mandir, it was built under a fusion of Rajasthani and Mughal architectural styles.  

    Another most important city of the state is Jodhpur, the former capital of the Marwar Kingdom. Known as the “Sun City”-because of its bright and sunny weather – as well as the “Blue City”- for the blue-coloured houses- it has the Mehrangarh Fort on the top of the hill and has beautifully decorated palaces, such as Moti Mahal and Phool Mahal. One of the world’s largest private residences is the Umaid Bhawan Palace and, at the time, the 20s, it was built to fight the famine that was hitting the city, employing thousands of people.  

    Jaisalmer, a World Heritage Site, is located in the heart of the Thar Desert, and so, because of its yellow sand and the use of yellow sandstone in its architecture, it is called the “Golden City”. The Jaisalmer Fort, which crowns the city, is one of the largest fortifications in the world and dates back to the 12th century.

    The palaces that compose Rajasthan are numerous, contributing to the rich cultural heritage left by the kingdoms that were once spread around the state and that make this one of the sort out places to visit in India.

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  • Valley of Gods

    Valley of Gods

    The  Kullu Valley best known as Valley of  Gods’ or ‘Silver Valley’, is perhaps the most delightful region in the Western Himalayas. Situated on the banks of the river Beas, Kullu town, the headquarters of the district was once known as ‘Kulanthpitha’ (‘end of the habitable world’). The region abounds in apple orchards, old wooden temples, folk music, and dances and is the starting point for some adventurous treks.

    From peaceful riversides to the majestic snow-clad mountain peaks, Kullu Valley has countless destinations for travellers. Its natural grandeur, vivid culture, arts, cheerful lifestyle and simple and hardworking people are also admirable. The five wildlife sanctuaries of Kullu offer a wide diversity of wildlife and are home to snow leopards, musk deer, brown bears, monal, etc.

    Kullu Valley provides excellent avenues as well as facilities for adventure sports. The valley has some of the best sites for skiing (at Solang), para-gliding, mountaineering, white-water rafting, trekking, biking, etc. Kullu Valley is also renowned for its traditional handicrafts. Kullu shawls and caps are admired for their rich coloured patterns.

    Dotting the landscape are several temples. The most remarkable temple of the valley is that of Bijli Mahadeva which is located a few miles away from Kullu. Raghunathji Temple, Bajaura Temple and Vaishno Devi Temple which is 4 km north of the Kullu-Manali road, where a small cave has an image of Goddess Vaishno, are other famous temples around Kullu. Another attraction there is Sultanpur Palace with beautiful Kulu-style of miniature paintings and other artefacts.

    Parvati Valley Manikaran, the well-known hot springs is just 45 km from Kulu town. Local legend goes that while Goddess Parvati (consort of Lord Shiva) bathed in the river, Naga the serpent god, stole her earrings (Manikaran).  At Siva’s command, he angrily blew them back from the underground causing a spring to flow.  Manikaran is supposed to be the hottest spring in the world. The road from Kullu to Manali is flanked by lofty mountains and wide forests. On this road is Katrain, famous for its fruit orchards and its trout hatchery. Across the river is a small town Naggar, which has been made famous by the late Russian painter, Nicholas Roerich, whose gallery can be seen there. Jagatsukh, the biggest village of the district on the Naggar-Manali road, is popular for its annual Chacholi Yatra. The Urusvati FolkArt Museum at Naggar has an excellent collection of Russian and Indian folk arts, costumes, carved slabs and beautiful oil paintings.

    The best time to visit the Kullu Valley is October. There is a wide variety of accommodation to choose from. The Tourism Department offers log huts and independent cottages.

    There are daily flights from Delhi to the Kullu Valley’s Bhuntar airport which is 10 km from Kullu town. The closest railhead is at Jogindernagar, 95 km from Kullu. By road, the distance via Mandi is 530 km and from Shimla, it is 240 km. Luxury buses also ply from Delhi and Shimla to Kullu. 

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  • Bird Paradise

    Bird Paradise

    Spread across 30 acres of land in Vedanthangal, Tamil Nadu is the Vedanthangal bird sanctuary, the oldest one of its kind in the country. The sanctuary has been in existence for more than 200 years and the villagers in the area have given been the right to protect the sanctuary.  

    Breeding birds like the Cormorant, Egrets, Grey Heron, Open-billed Stork, Darter, Spoonbill, White Ibis, Night Herons, Grebes, and Grey Pelican visit the sanctuary each year. The population of migratory birds like Teals, Shovellers, Pintails, Sandpipers, etc. fly in during winter. Resident birds listed include Coots, Terns and Moorhen. In all 115 species of birds have been recorded in this sanctuary.  November to February is the ideal season to visit the sanctuary. 

    Vedanthangal is home not only to migratory birds but also to many ornithologists who camp here for weeks observing the birds at close quarters. The population of the migratory birds swells to around 40,000 by the middle of January. The sanctuary is an amazing place to be in, especially at sunset when you can spot thousands of birds returning to their nests and dotting the trees. The sanctuary is open between 6 a.m. and 6 p.m. Visitors can take guided tours on request.

    The Forest Rest House in Vedanthangal provides good stay facilities and is located 58 km away from Chennai International Airport and 30 km from Chengalpattu. Regular buses ply from Chennai, Tambaram and Chengalpattu. 

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  • Unforgettable Hong Kong

    Unforgettable Hong Kong

    Discover the excitement of a romantic holiday in Hong Kong-a living fusion of East and West. Whether you are planning your honeymoon, celebrating an anniversary or simply getting to know one another, Hong Kong has the magic to make memories for life. The celebrated Victoria Harbour here makes a perfect backdrop for those in love. 

    You could board a Duk Ling- an authentic Chinese junk and set sail into Hong Kong’s scenic harbour for a 360-degree view of city’s impressive skyline. It has crisscrossed Hong Kong’s waters for hundreds of years, and still reminds you of the romance that accompanied the early taipans. 

    You might start your day with a champagne breakfast in a luxurious hotel suite with a view.  Check for the little luxuries such as limousine service, flowers, en-suite Jacuzzis, day spas and infinity pools. Build up your appetite with a ride in the Peak Tram all the way up to the revitalised Peak Tower and ‘new again’ Madame Tussaud’s wax museum. Fix a date with a fortune-teller in the pavilions of serene, incense-filled temples or pack in a day of outdoor fun at Hong Kong’s fantasy island retreats. Relax in your hotel’s health or beauty spa, and get ready for an elegant gourmet dinner at the Café Deco located on The Peak.   Charter a yacht for the day, dine on board or tell the captain to set a course for a seafood feast at picturesque Sai Kung, Lei Yue Mun or tranquil Lamma Island. Board a Duk Ling- an authentic Chinese junk and set sail into Hong Kong’s scenic harbour for a 360-degree view of city’s impressive skyline. Share the calming sea breeze and sweet air as you ramble in nature’s delights. You’ll be amazed, but there are more than 260 outlying islands in Hong Kong. The largest is Lantau- home to the world’s tallest, outdoor, seated, bronze Buddha at the Po Lin Monastery. 

    While in Lantau, add some magic to your romance with a visit to Hong Kong Disneyland. Immerse yourself in the storybook world of Fantasyland, or travel back in time to small town America with a visit to Main Street, USA! And when the sun goes down, you can hold your hands while the dazzling firework displays unfold like a dream coming true against the backdrop of Sleeping Beauty Castle.

    The romantic options in Hong Kong are only limited by your imagination. If a chauffeured limousine is not your scene, go ahead and hire a helicopter for a thrilling ride over the territory. Or take a tram tour of Hong Kong Island, or an open-top bus along neon-lit Nathan Road at night.

    Enjoy a moonlit stroll along the Avenue of Stars at the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront, which also offers the perfect viewpoint to marvel at A Symphony of Lights -a dramatic display that lights up the night, every evening at 8pm. The multimedia show involves over 30 buildings decked out in dancing neon lights and laser beams coordinated to music and narration.   

    Visit the Giant Buddha at the Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island. Enjoy an exclusive vegetarian meal cooked by the monks followed by a visit to a teahouse at Ngong Ping Village.There are many other ways to pamper your special someone in Hong Kong style. The Soho area and Knutsford Terrace are two of Hong Kong’s most fashionable dining hotspots and perfect for a romantic meal. Stanley and Repulse Bay, serve meals in charming colonial settings with sweeping beaches and shoreline promenades. Enjoy the drinks later at Lan Kwai Fong or at the stylish Felix at the top of The Peninsula Hotel. 

  • My India:Little things mean a lot

    My India:Little things mean a lot

    By Rudy Otter

    Tourists never forget the major delights and thrills they experienced while on holiday. But they also remember the hiccups, the drawbacks, the petty annoyances. What, for instance, is the point of a foreign tourist having a wonderful break in India, visiting one or more of the subcontinent’s 26 World Heritage sites, or walking through the magnificent palaces and forts of Rajasthan, or watching hundreds of people bathing in the holy River Ganges, or being photographed on the Taj Mahal bench made famous by the late Princess Diana, or marvelling at the awe-inspiring waterfalls and wildlife of southern India, when a taxi driver dishonestly charges them twice the normal fare, or a railway clerk botches up a simple verbal enquiry, resulting in them missing a train and having to spend two hours on an overcrowded sweltering platform waiting for the next one? “Array, what is two hours?” I can hear some Indians say. Well, in time-sensitive western culture, a two-hour wait is considered almost as long as a lifetime. What is more, such experiences overshadow the tourist’s holiday memories and may discourage him from returning.

    One friend booked a holiday to India for the first time and became increasingly excited at the prospect of having an “exotic experience”. After the fortnight’s holiday, accompanied by her mother, she returned home disillusioned. “Oh dear,” she said, shaking her head. “We tourists were hassled by vendors everywhere we went. The same thing happened on excursions.”  I know the feeling. But there is an effective way to deal with hasslers and I shall reveal it later in this column.

    On our first visit to New Delhi, many years ago, my wife and I liked to go for strolls in Connaught Place, the main shopping area, but this was not the pleasant experience it ought to have been. We were harassed by touts offering to take us to cottage emporia to buy locally made souvenirs, despite our polite “No thanks”. Also, when we took a taxi to Chandni Chowk (Old Delhi), the driver pulled up at a cottage emporium and urged us to go in. Surprised at this unscheduled stop, I said: “But we don’t want to buy any souvenirs.”  “Just go and see,” he persisted, overcoming all our meek objections.  We had no overwhelming desire to buy impressive hand-crafted wooden elephants, paintings of historic Indian battles, beautifully designed carpets or salt-and-pepper mills, and came out empty-handed, sending him into a sullen mood. We later learned that cottage industry touts earned hefty commissions when the tourists they brought in actually purchased something

    We also learned from an old India hand, who spent all his holidays in India for the past 12 years, never to say “No thanks” to touts – because this merely encourages them to persist in the belief that they can change your mind. The technique is to say nothing. Just ignore them completely; pretend they are invisible, and they will soon go away. We tried it and it worked like magic.Last year, India’s Ministry of Tourism launched a tremendous programme called “Athithi Devo Bhava” (my guest is my god) aimed at improving services to tourists to the level of care and hospitality found in typical Indian households, making visitors feel so welcome that they keep coming back year after year.

    “Athidhi Devo Bhava”, if promoted enthusiastically across India, will give tourism a massive boost and help bring in many more millions of foreign visitors, proving that India is one of the world’s most popular holiday destinations.

    Rudy Otter is a UK-based travel writer